Ustawienia zawieszenia

[Konrad K_2]

kombinuje z ustawieniami przedniego zawieszenia (geometria , negatyw)

Moze macie jakieś rady co do kombinacji wyjściowej?

[humin]

Kod: Zaznacz cały

12 April 2005 (revised: 19 August 2005) 

SUSPENSION GEOMETRY

By keith

Begin date  07-Jul-2005            End date      08-Jul-2050

BUY THE RIGHT PARTS TO DO THE JOB CORRECTLY BY KEITH DODD

SUSPENSION GEOMETRY 
It is baffling to see so many companies advertising mini suspension geometry parts in kits that are a waste of time as they rarely complete the job on either the front or the rear. 
They usually offer the castor (tracking) on the front and camber on the rear. To allow the car to handle better you must attend to optimising caster, camber and tracking. 
Many people already fit the adjustable heavy duty tie rods that Mini spares introduced in 1976 to provide adjustment of the castor angles which suffer so many variations including when the standard bars get distorted. 
To complete the front geometry the camber angles will require correcting by fitting adjustable lower arms. As all of this adjustment frequently puts extra deflection stress on the lower arm bushes we suggest you use our offset rubber bushes designed specifically for this purpose. C-STR631 or C-STR632 
On the rear you have the option of fitting fixed negative camber angle brackets which will only increase the original setting by a set amount on both sides. This is of no real benefit if the car is different on both sides as is usually found. Adjustable camber and tracking brackets should be fitted and then the whole suspension correctly set up using purpose made or professional equipment for accuracy. Aternatively adjustable camber brackets can be fitted and then shims placed between the radius arm locating brackets and the subframe to correct the tracking. This is now favoured by many racers as they can work out a preset amount of shims for every use. It is also a stronger way correct rear camber and tracking . Shims are CK17 and CK18 for subframe alloy box sections. 
The first area to look at before tackling any of these modifications is the front subframe when the car is post 1976 (rubber mounted subframe type). Replace the front subframe tower mountings with any of the solid types available if not already done. 
The front teardrop mountings should also be changed for solid type which might increase road noise but when this is not a consideration for performance use change all rubber mountings to solid types. 
Quite often the tower rubber mountings are not correctly lined up but by removing the tower bolts you can see visually whether they are in line or not. Then check that the wheel centres on each side of the car are the same distance apart or modifications will have to be made. 
Secondly, make sure the car is the correct height you require, and that the two rear corners and two front corners are equal side to side, (fit Hilos if required) remember lowering height increases castor and negative camber with the opposite happening when you increase height at the front only. 
Thirdly, sort out the castor angles as castor adjustment also alters camber (and vice versa) 
Ideally the front castor angles should be set at 3 to 3.5 degrees with the later usually being ideal to allow for clearances on wheel arches. 
Tracking on a mini is ultra important as it suffers badly from bump steer . You should have toe out at the front, of 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch. And toe in at the rear of at least 1/16 of an inch. “Toe in” means that the leading edge of a pair of wheels is narrower than the trailing edge, “Toe out” is obviously the reverse (Toe out at the rear is dangerous) 
Lastly, set the Negative Camber angles and the following are road suggestions, 
on 10” wheels Front 1.5 to-2.00 degrees Rear 0.75 to 1 degree 
on 12” wheels Front 1 to 1.5 degrees Rear 0 to 0.50 degrees 
on 13” wheels Front 0.5 to 0.75 degrees Rear Zero 
KEITH DODD

[Konrad K_2]

nie jest to łatwa lektura ale podołam

[humin]

ano nie jest
ale trzeba to przejść by dobrze zrozumieć kwestie

jako podstawę polecam artykuł na stronie www.markfive.republika.pl -> modyfikacje -> Ustawienia geometrii zawieszenia

[Michauu]

ano nie jest
ale trzeba to przejść by dobrze zrozumieć kwestie

jako podstawę polecam artykuł na stronie www.markfive.republika.pl -> modyfikacje -> Ustawienia geometrii zawieszenia

http://www.markfive.republika.pl/ctun/tun5.htm

Właśnie muszę podjechać i ustawić geometrie czy te parametry z tabeli 1 sprawdzają się? Ma ktoś z was tak ustawioną geometrie?

[Gibki Staruszek]

nie jest to łatwa lektura ale podołam

jak podołasz to napisz streszczenie po polskiemu

[Konrad K_2]

podołałem , ale w 2009 teraz to mało co pamiętam

[humin]

to jest praktycznie to samo co u Marka na stronie
bynajmniej tak mi się wydaje po rzuceniu okiem

a co do ustawień to wszystko zależy do czego będziesz używał swojego mini
z tego co wiem każdy ma swoje tajemnice
ja mam pochylenia kół przód -2,5, tył -1
wyprzedzenie 3,5
tył zbieżoność, przód na zero

pokrótce - zrób jak jest na stronce u Marka i będzie dobrze a w trakcie użytkowania i po rozmowach z innymi bardziej doświadczonymi sam dojdziesz do wniosku co zmienić